April 23, 2017, 02:39:14 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: SMF - Just Installed!
   Home   Help Search Login Register  
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
 on: April 17, 2017, 04:06:58 PM 
Started by kvz2000 - Last post by kraakevik
Beautiful car--with the fuel-injected high-output M110 DOHC six, I presume--well done

Tim Kraakevik

 on: April 17, 2017, 01:29:39 PM 
Started by Salad - Last post by kvz2000
To be clear I'm looking to buy the car and not just a manual, if you get my meaning. Sorry if I wasn't clear.
Hi Salad ,
Very quiet forum as you'll have found out , I've just joined it but not impressed , if you view my posts you'll see I've just bought a W114 in Eire and looking for advice / help etc .
I find the merc190 forum and mercUK both far better than on here , did you find a car ?

 on: April 17, 2017, 01:21:00 PM 
Started by kvz2000 - Last post by kvz2000
Not sure if worth posting on here as there isn't much/any activity but I'll try . Travelled to Eire at the weekend and came home with this .

Lovely LHD from France showing 45k miles and I believe that to be true but some detective work required to confirm.

 on: April 13, 2017, 04:40:17 PM 
Started by kvz2000 - Last post by kvz2000
Hi All ,
Just able to get access after waiting a while to get registration approved !! I am also not able to view the gallery as it says my password is wrong which it isn't , any advice on how to view gallery ?
I'll introduce myself soon as I'm off to view a W114 at the weekend and will have loads of questions .
Unfortunately this site doesn't get a great review but hopefully it can be improved or better used.

 on: April 01, 2017, 05:53:00 PM 
Started by maxiwoofus - Last post by madmog
Did you get anywhere with this?

I had, I suspect, the same problem with one of the levers not moving the valve. The wire had kinked so moving the lever just forced the kink which sprung back.

It's a bit of an involved fix but not technically difficult. Remove front seats to remove centre console then you can look up at the levers from underneath. The levers in the cockpit have a pin, the same as the heater valve with a springy wire which is turned around the pin at each end. You can see the easiest in the engine bay.

If, as I suspect, you have a kink that explains how you can move the heater valve and have the wire move since you are pulling the wire which straightens and is pulled into its tube. But when you move the lever in the cockpit it pushes the wire which bends more at the kink so doesn't do through the tube.

If you can't straighten the kink by hand and pliars then you need a new wire.

Rather than try to fit a new bowden cable, you can just replace the wire with 1.25mm piano wire. (1m is plenty, get 2m for practice off Ebay) To make the curved end for the heater, get a bit of 5mm threaded bar and cut a notch in the top as if you were going to screw it with a flat bladed screwdriver. The notch needs to be thick enough and deep enough that it will hold the end of the wire. put this threaded bar in a vice or secure somehow. Then with pliars, force the wire around the threaded bar 5 or 6 times and tight to the bar to replicate what you see on the heater valve. Just do one end of the wire as you will be threading through.

Snip the old wire and remove from both ends. Oil the new wire and feed  through from the cockpit control end. Careful not to kink. Fit over the cockpit lever. adjust the lever so it pushes the wire as far through as it will go. Push the heater valve as far as it will go too. mark the wire with a marker pen where the heater control pin matches. Then move the cockpit control to its other extreme and do the same with the heater valve. Hopefully the marker pen mark lines up with the pin still in the engine bay. When you are happy that you have the correct position, use the pliars to twist the wire around the heater valve pin to replicate how it used to be. Snip off the excess wire.

I have a few pics of how I did this in case they are of use?

 on: April 01, 2017, 05:17:41 PM 
Started by ProjectBenz - Last post by madmog
Here's one that might be of interest:

 on: April 01, 2017, 05:05:12 PM 
Started by Tee - Last post by madmog
I use a few German sites:

Also ask on the German site:

and or search their knowhow page - run through google translate.

I did the same as you by accident or design, picked up a LHD version partly because there are lot more LHD ones surviving.

It might be worth, if service items aren't too expensive, buying enough for 2 or 3 services  to make the postage worthwhile.

 on: March 21, 2017, 03:30:57 PM 
Started by OLDCARSRULE - Last post by kraakevik
I've had six 280's with the M110 engine, including a yellow '76, the most refined of the breed.  It will probably not depreciate much if at all--good-running examples with cosmetic appeal are pretty rare

Tim Kraakevik   

 on: March 20, 2017, 07:39:49 PM 
Started by OLDCARSRULE - Last post by OLDCARSRULE
1976 280 carb, new gas tank, tires, upholstery.  I was the second owner of this car at 92,000 miles.  I sold it to a friend for 5,000.00, he wants to sell it back (he had the interior done for 2,000.00).

there is minimal rust on a wheel well.. but no serious rust, it was garaged it's whole life.

I know this car is sound... paint is great, yellow.

Question is... at 108,000 miles... what do I offer?  I am pretty sure I can always sell it again, if need be, for 5,000.00... but this car is not that desireable.  they don't seem to move well.


I just LOVED the way it drove and such, I sure as HELL don't need it.  I have a 76 TR6, and am rebuilding an 86 CJ7... so I don't need this car... but I can't bring myself to let it go... especially into the 'wilds'

 on: March 10, 2017, 10:02:22 PM 
Started by W114 Coupe - Last post by maxiwoofus
yes....check it out...

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by Netfirms and Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!