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Author Topic: Broken heater control lever  (Read 83 times)
maxiwoofus
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« on: March 07, 2017, 07:32:05 PM »

The driver's side heater control knob on my '73 280 is not able to move the cable that controls the valve lever against the firewall.  The valve lever works manually, but the instrument knob does not move the lever.  I am sure the knob and cable have separated.  Is there an "easy" way to take of the heater instrument panel to get a look at the cable controls?  I do not want to start prying and break something.
Thanks,
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kraakevik
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« Reply #1 on: March 08, 2017, 10:28:21 AM »

You can try removing the metal grille above--there are two spring-loaded pins that hold the grille in place--then look to see whether the cable has popped off the control lever.

Another work-around is to position the valve on the firewall in the mid-way position in cold weather and use the passenger-side lever to regulate cabin heat--good luck



Tim Kraakevik
kraakevik@voyager.net
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maxiwoofus
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« Reply #2 on: March 08, 2017, 10:54:28 AM »

thanks...will give a try
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madmog
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« Reply #3 on: April 01, 2017, 05:53:00 PM »

Did you get anywhere with this?

I had, I suspect, the same problem with one of the levers not moving the valve. The wire had kinked so moving the lever just forced the kink which sprung back.

It's a bit of an involved fix but not technically difficult. Remove front seats to remove centre console then you can look up at the levers from underneath. The levers in the cockpit have a pin, the same as the heater valve with a springy wire which is turned around the pin at each end. You can see the easiest in the engine bay.

If, as I suspect, you have a kink that explains how you can move the heater valve and have the wire move since you are pulling the wire which straightens and is pulled into its tube. But when you move the lever in the cockpit it pushes the wire which bends more at the kink so doesn't do through the tube.

If you can't straighten the kink by hand and pliars then you need a new wire.

Rather than try to fit a new bowden cable, you can just replace the wire with 1.25mm piano wire. (1m is plenty, get 2m for practice off Ebay) To make the curved end for the heater, get a bit of 5mm threaded bar and cut a notch in the top as if you were going to screw it with a flat bladed screwdriver. The notch needs to be thick enough and deep enough that it will hold the end of the wire. put this threaded bar in a vice or secure somehow. Then with pliars, force the wire around the threaded bar 5 or 6 times and tight to the bar to replicate what you see on the heater valve. Just do one end of the wire as you will be threading through.

Snip the old wire and remove from both ends. Oil the new wire and feed  through from the cockpit control end. Careful not to kink. Fit over the cockpit lever. adjust the lever so it pushes the wire as far through as it will go. Push the heater valve as far as it will go too. mark the wire with a marker pen where the heater control pin matches. Then move the cockpit control to its other extreme and do the same with the heater valve. Hopefully the marker pen mark lines up with the pin still in the engine bay. When you are happy that you have the correct position, use the pliars to twist the wire around the heater valve pin to replicate how it used to be. Snip off the excess wire.

I have a few pics of how I did this in case they are of use?
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